QOM

For divers, the South Pacific conjures images of vibrant coral reefs, crystal-clear waters, and abundant marine life. But for a select group of underwater adventurers, Vanuatu offers something far more profound: a dive into history, a journey through a bygone era, and an unforgettable encounter with one of the world’s most accessible and magnificent shipwrecks – the SS President Coolidge.

Lying just off the coast of Espiritu Santo, Vanuatu’s largest island, the Coolidge isn’t just a wreck; it’s an underwater city, a time capsule, and a poignant monument to a global conflict.

A Grand Ocean Liner’s Unlikely Fate

The SS President Coolidge began its life in 1931 as a luxurious ocean liner, ferrying the wealthy across the Pacific with unparalleled style. Imagine grand ballrooms, exquisite dining halls, and opulent cabins. With the outbreak of World War II, this majestic vessel was requisitioned by the U.S. military and transformed into a troop transport, stripped of its luxury and refitted to carry thousands of soldiers.

Its fateful day arrived on October 26, 1942. Approaching Espiritu Santo, which was a major Allied base, the Coolidge inadvertently struck two American mines guarding the harbor entrance. Despite a valiant effort by Captain Henry Nelson to beach the ship, it began to list heavily. In a testament to incredible discipline and quick thinking, almost all 5,340 men on board were safely evacuated, with only two lives lost. Within 90 minutes, the colossal ship slipped beneath the waves, coming to rest on its port side, just a few hundred meters from shore.

A Diver’s Paradise: Exploring an Underwater Museum

Today, the SS President Coolidge rests at depths ranging from 20 meters (66 feet) to 70 meters (230 feet), making it accessible to divers with varying levels of experience (though deeper sections require advanced certifications). Its sheer size – over 200 meters (650 feet) long – means you could spend days, even weeks, exploring its vast interiors and still discover new passages.

What makes diving the Coolidge so extraordinary?

• The Scale: It’s immense. You dive through massive cargo holds, along towering decks, and into what were once luxurious passenger areas.
• The Artifacts: Because it sank quickly and was not salvaged, much of its wartime cargo and even elements of its former luxury remain. Divers can encounter jeeps, trucks, cannons, ammunition, gas masks, and medical supplies. One of the most famous sights is “The Lady,” a ceramic mosaic of a lady on a horse, remarkably preserved in the former first-class smoking lounge.
• The Penetrations: For certified wreck divers, the Coolidge offers an unparalleled opportunity for penetration dives. You can explore the medical bays, barbershops, engine rooms, cargo holds, and even the swimming pool.
• Marine Life: Over the decades, the Coolidge has transformed into a vibrant artificial reef. It’s now home to an array of corals, reef sharks, barracuda, turtles, and countless reef fish, adding a beautiful, living layer to the historical wreck.
• Accessibility: Its close proximity to shore makes it easy to access, usually by a short boat ride from Luganville, Espiritu Santo.

Essential Tips for Diving the Coolidge:

• Certification is Key: To truly appreciate the Coolidge, you’ll need at least your Advanced Open Water certification. Deeper penetration dives require Wreck Diver and potentially Technical Diver certifications.
• Choose a Reputable Dive Operator: Local operators in Espiritu Santo are highly experienced with the Coolidge and can guide you safely through its complexities. They understand the different dive sites and appropriate skill levels.
• Bring a Torch (Flashlight): Even in shallower sections, a powerful dive torch is essential to illuminate the interiors and bring out the vibrant colors.
• Respect the Wreck: The Coolidge is a war grave and a historical site. Do not touch, remove, or disturb any artifacts. Leave only bubbles, take only memories (and photos!).
• Plan Multiple Dives: You cannot do justice to the Coolidge in just one or two dives. Plan for at least 5-10 dives to explore different sections and truly grasp its grandeur.

Diving the SS President Coolidge is more than just another wreck dive; it’s an immersive historical journey, a testament to human endeavor, and a breathtaking natural spectacle. It’s a must-do for any serious wreck diver and an experience that will stay with you long after you’ve surfaced. Pack your bags, get certified, and prepare to be awe-struck by Vanuatu’s magnificent underwater treasure.